Exterior painting
The coat lasts as long as the prep underneath it.
Siding, trim, fascia, doors, and decks — washed, scraped, repaired, caulked, primed, and coated twice. Not sure whether yours is due? Photograph it and find out in seconds.
What we paint outside
Every material on the exterior wants a different product and a different prep. We spec them separately.
Siding
Wood, fiber cement, aluminum, and vinyl — washed, spot-primed, and coated in a 100% acrylic exterior built for freeze-thaw cycles.
Brick & masonry
Breathable masonry coatings that let moisture escape instead of trapping it behind the film and blistering off in a season.
Fascia, soffit & gutters
The first boards to fail and the easiest to skip. We prime bare wood and coat the whole run, not just what's visible from the driveway.
Front doors & shutters
Sanded and finished in a durable enamel with real color depth — the highest-impact square footage on the whole house.
Garage doors
Degreased, scuff-sanded, and coated in a finish that handles direct sun and daily movement without chalking.
Decks, porches & railings
Cleaned and brightened, then stained or painted with the right product for a horizontal surface that takes standing water.
Signs it's time to repaint
Walk your house once and look for these. Any two of them together means it's time to get a number.
Chalking
A powdery residue on your hand after touching the siding. The binder has broken down and the film is no longer sealing.
Fading on the sun side
South and west walls losing color years before the rest usually means the original coat was stretched thin.
Peeling or blistering
Adhesion failure, almost always from moisture behind the film or paint applied over a dirty or unprimed surface.
Cracked or missing caulk
Open joints at trim, corners, and windows are a direct water path into the sheathing. This is the urgent one.
Exposed or graying wood
Bare wood absorbs water and starts to rot. Catching it while it's just gray is far cheaper than replacing boards.
Mildew and dark streaks
Shaded north walls and areas under gutters grow mildew that will bleed straight through a new coat if it isn't killed first.
Our prep-first exterior process
Wash
Low-pressure wash with a mildewcide to strip chalk, dirt, and organic growth so the new coat can actually bond.
Scrape & sand
Every loose or failing edge comes off and gets feathered smooth so the repair doesn't telegraph through the finish.
Repair
Rotted trim, fascia, and siding boards replaced, and nail holes filled, before a drop of paint is opened.
Caulk
Fresh exterior-grade elastomeric caulk at every joint, corner, and window perimeter to close the water paths.
Prime bare substrate
Exterior-grade primer over all bare wood, repairs, and stains — including a stain blocker on cedar and redwood.
Two coats & cleanup
Two full coats sprayed and back-brushed for penetration, then a full site cleanup and walk-through with you.
Weather & scheduling
- Best window is roughly 50–85°F with low humidity and no rain in the 24 hours after application.
- Late spring through early fall is prime season here; we book out further the closer it gets to summer.
- We watch dew point, not just the daytime high — a warm afternoon with a cold night can ruin a fresh coat.
- Direct blazing sun is avoided by working around the house with the shade so the film doesn't flash-dry.
- Rain delays are rescheduled, not painted through. We would rather move a day than redo a wall.
- Off-season inquiries are welcome — winter is the easiest time to get on the early spring schedule.
Not sure what you're seeing?
Photograph the siding, trim, or deck and our AI defect scanner names it — chalking, adhesion failure, moisture, or mildew — with a severity rating and the repair that actually fixes it.
Common questions
Get an exterior painting estimate
Send photos of your siding, trim, and problem areas — we'll come back with a written, itemized number.
Do it from your phone
Preview new colors on your actual walls and scan problem areas with the free iPhone app.